I remember staring at that huge, dead ash tree in my backyard, a casualty of the emerald ash borer. It was an eyesore, a tangled mess of grey branches reaching for the sky like skeletal fingers. My first thought was pure annoyance – another thing to deal with. But then, a little voice, the one that’s seen too many fancy woodworking magazines and heard too much hype, whispered, ‘Wait a minute… is that usable lumber?’ It’s a question a lot of folks grapple with when a majestic ash meets its untimely end.
So, let’s cut through the noise. Are dead ash trees good for lumber? The short answer is: sometimes, but it’s complicated, and you need to know what you’re looking for. Forget the glossy brochures and the romanticized notions for a second. We’re talking about real wood, from a tree that’s, well, dead.
When an Ash Tree Bites the Dust: What Happens Next
When an emerald ash borer (EAB) or any other pest or disease takes down an ash tree, it’s not like flicking a switch from ‘alive’ to ‘dead lumber.’ It’s a process, and understanding that process is key to figuring out if that fallen giant is actually worth salvaging. First off, EAB is brutal. It bores into the cambium layer, the vital tissue just under the bark, effectively starving the tree. You’ll often see D-shaped exit holes where the adult beetles emerge, and serpentine galleries etched into the wood just beneath the bark. This usually happens over a few years.
The longer an ash tree stands dead, the more things can go wrong. Think of it like leaving groceries out on the counter. The wood starts to dry out, but it also starts to degrade. Insects, fungi, and even just exposure to the elements – sun, rain, freeze-thaw cycles – all start to break down the wood fibers.
This is where the ‘good for lumber’ question gets tricky. If the tree has been dead for a long time, especially if it’s been standing and exposed, the outer layers will likely be punky, insect-infested, and generally no good for anything beyond firewood.
The bark might be loose, falling off in sheets, taking chunks of the outer wood with it. You might see signs of carpenter ants or beetles, and if you tap on the trunk, it might sound hollow or soft.
However, if the tree falls relatively quickly after death, or if you’re able to fell it soon after noticing it’s truly gone, there’s a much better chance of salvaging usable lumber. The key is to minimize the time between death and milling.
This means being proactive. If you see signs of EAB infestation and the tree is clearly declining, don’t wait for it to become a hazard or a total loss.
Get it down and get it to the mill. The sooner, the better. I once had a neighbor wait about a year after his ash died.
By the time he got around to thinking about lumber, the outer 6 inches of the trunk were completely compromised. Just not worth the effort.
What to Look for: Identifying Usable Ash Lumber
Okay, so you’ve got a dead ash tree, or you’re eyeing one at a local mill. How do you tell if it’s actually usable lumber or just expensive firewood? It all comes down to inspecting the wood itself. The first thing you’ll want to do is peel back some of that bark. If it slides off easily, that’s usually a bad sign. It means the cambium layer has deteriorated, and the wood underneath might be too soft or damaged. Ideally, the bark should still be relatively firmly attached. (See Also: Are Lumber Prices Going Up Again )
Next, look at the wood itself. Is it stained? Are there large, obvious holes or tunnels? The serpentine galleries left by EAB larvae are distinctive, but while they are a sign of infestation, they don’t automatically disqualify the wood. Often, these galleries are shallow, just under the bark. The real killer is rot and advanced insect damage. Poke the wood with a sharp object, like an awl or even a strong screwdriver. If you can easily push it deep into the wood, it’s likely too punky. You want to feel resistance. The wood should be relatively firm and dense.
Color can also be an indicator, but it’s not definitive. Ash lumber typically has a creamy white to light brown sapwood and a heartwood that ranges from light to dark brown. Sometimes, you’ll see streaks or a grayish cast. This isn’t necessarily bad; it can be a result of the tree’s death process or even the staining from certain fungi. What you don’t want is a widespread, mushy rot that discolors the wood significantly and makes it crumbly. The grain should still be visible and intact. For furniture-grade lumber, you’re looking for tight, straight grain with minimal defects. If you’re seeing lots of cracks, checks, or twisting, the drying process might have been too fast or uneven.
The Hardwood Lumber Grading Association’s Stance
While there isn’t a specific standard for ‘dead ash lumber’ versus ‘live ash lumber,’ the general principles of hardwood lumber grading, as outlined by organizations like the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA), still apply. They focus on the usable, clear (defect-free) wood that can be obtained from a board. The presence of insect galleries, staining, or incipient rot can lower the grade of the lumber.
However, a skilled lumber grader can often work around minor defects, and for certain rustic applications, these ‘imperfections’ might even add character. The key takeaway from any grading system is that the structural integrity and aesthetic quality of the wood are most important. If the damage is too extensive to yield a usable board of acceptable quality for its intended purpose, then it’s not good lumber.
| Indicator | Good Sign | Bad Sign | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bark Adhesion | Firmly attached, requires effort to remove | Peels off easily, loose | Good |
| Wood Firmness | Resistant to probing tool | Easily penetrated, soft, crumbly | Bad |
| Insect Activity | Shallow galleries, superficial damage | Deep tunnels, widespread damage, active infestation | Bad |
| Color | Creamy white to light/medium brown, possible minor staining | Dark, uniform rot, mushy appearance | Good (unless accompanied by softness) |
| Grain Structure | Intact, visible, consistent | Crumbled, compromised, widespread warping | Good |
Common Mistakes When Working with Dead Ash
You see a fallen dead ash, your mind races with potential projects – a rustic table, some shelves, maybe even a guitar neck. Great!
But hold on. Many people jump into milling and drying dead ash without understanding the pitfalls, and that’s where money and time get wasted. One of the biggest mistakes is not milling it quickly enough. As I mentioned, the clock starts ticking the moment the tree dies.
The longer it sits, especially if it’s still standing and exposed to sun and rain, the more the outer layers will degrade. This means you might end up with a lot of waste when you go to saw it. I learned this the hard way with a large oak that died.
I let it sit for a full year before getting it milled. The outer foot of logs was nearly all punky and riddled with insect holes. It was a costly lesson in patience and urgency.
Another common error is improper drying. Dead ash wood, like any wood, needs to be dried carefully to prevent excessive checking, warping, and cracking. If you mill it and then just stack it in the sun to dry rapidly, you’re asking for trouble. The wood is already stressed from the death and potential insect activity. Rapid drying will exacerbate these stresses. Kiln drying is the best method for dead ash, as it allows for controlled drying, minimizing defects. If you’re air-drying, you need to stack it properly with plenty of stickers, keep it off the ground, and protect it from direct sun and rain. It takes longer, but it’s important.
People also sometimes overestimate the amount of usable lumber they’ll get. Dead ash often has a higher percentage of waste due to insect damage, rot, and checking. Don’t expect perfect, clear boards from every log. (See Also: Are Lumber Prices Going To Continue To Rise )
You need to factor in a higher waste percentage. This is why buying directly from a fallen tree or a mill that specializes in salvage timber can be a gamble.
You might get a great deal, or you might end up with a lot of material that’s only good for smaller projects or mulch. Finally, there’s the issue of wood movement. Even ‘dead’ wood is still wood, and it will expand and contract with changes in humidity. You need to account for this in your designs, just like you would with any other hardwood.
Ignoring it can lead to joints failing, panels cracking, or surfaces warping.
Real-World Uses for Dead Ash Lumber
Despite the challenges, dead ash lumber can be fantastic for a variety of projects, provided you’ve selected and processed it correctly. Its strength and hardness are still there, making it suitable for applications where durability is key. Think about furniture that doesn’t need to be perfectly pristine – rustic dining tables, coffee tables, benches, or even sturdy bed frames. The slightly imperfect character that comes from salvaged wood can add a unique charm and story to these pieces.
I once built a large, heavy-duty workbench for my garage out of some salvaged ash. It’s not fine furniture, but it’s rock solid and has held up to years of abuse.
The little knots and subtle color variations from the borers just add to its character; it looks like it means business.
For smaller items, dead ash is excellent. Think cutting boards, charcuterie boards, decorative bowls, or even small boxes. The grain pattern can be quite beautiful, and the hardness of ash makes it a good choice for items that will see a lot of use. You can often get away with minor imperfections in these smaller pieces, or even incorporate them into the design. Turning a knot or a small split into a design feature is part of the fun of working with salvaged wood.
Beyond woodworking, dead ash can be used for flooring, especially in areas where a more rustic or distressed look is desired. It’s also a popular choice for paneling or accent walls, giving a room a unique, natural aesthetic. Even if the wood has some surface defects, it can often be milled down to produce narrower strips that are easier to work with and yield less waste. If the quality is truly compromised, don’t forget its original purpose: firewood. Ash burns hot and long, making it a great fuel source. So, even if it doesn’t make it to the workbench, it can still provide warmth.
People Also Ask: Is Ash Wood Good for Furniture?
Is Ash Wood Durable?
Yes, ash wood is considered very durable and strong. It has excellent shock resistance, making it suitable for furniture, tool handles, and sporting goods. Its hardness and resilience mean it can withstand significant wear and tear.
What Is Ash Wood Best Used for?
Ash wood is versatile. It’s traditionally used for furniture, cabinetry, flooring, baseball bats, tool handles, and decorative turnings. Its attractive grain and strength make it a popular choice for a wide range of applications. (See Also: Are Lumber Prices Going To Go Up )
Is Ash Wood More Expensive Than Oak?
Generally, ash wood can be comparable in price to oak, or sometimes slightly less expensive, depending on the grade and availability. Both are hardwoods, and their pricing fluctuates with market demand and supply.
Can You Use Dead Ash for Smoking Food?
While technically possible, using dead ash wood for smoking food is generally not recommended. Ash can sometimes absorb moisture and develop mold or other undesirable compounds as it decays. For smoking, it’s best to use fresh, properly seasoned hardwoods that are known for their clean smoke flavor, like hickory or fruitwoods.
Practical Tips for Sourcing and Using Dead Ash
If you’re considering using dead ash, here are a few tips I’ve picked up that can save you a headache and some cash. First, if you’re sourcing it yourself from a downed tree, act fast. The moment you know it’s dead and it’s safe to access, start making arrangements for it to be milled. The sooner it gets into logs and then sawn into lumber, the better its chances of yielding usable material. Don’t let it sit on the ground for months weathering away.
Second, if you’re buying from a sawyer or a salvage yard, be prepared to inspect thoroughly. Don’t be shy about asking to see the wood, and don’t be afraid to poke it. Look for signs of rot, extensive insect damage, and heavy checking. Ask how long the tree has been down and how it was processed. A good sawyer will be honest about the quality and potential yield. If they’re pushing you to buy a whole stack of questionable logs, walk away.
Third, when it comes to drying, if you’re air-drying, make sure your lumber is properly stickered and lifted. Protect it from the elements. If you’re milling it yourself, consider rough-milling it and then taking it to a professional kiln dryer. The controlled environment of a kiln can significantly reduce the chances of warping and cracking, especially with wood that’s already been stressed.
It might cost a bit more upfront, but it can save you from ruined lumber down the line. I once tried to air-dry a batch of salvaged ash for an outdoor table. I didn’t protect it well enough from rain, and the top layer turned into mulch before it even dried. Lesson learned: invest in protection or pay for kiln drying.
Finally, be realistic about your projects. Dead ash might not be the best choice for fine, delicate furniture where pristine clarity is required. However, it’s fantastic for rustic furniture, utilitarian items, or projects where its unique character can be a feature. Embrace the imperfections. Sometimes, a knot or a subtle discoloration tells a more interesting story than a perfectly clear board ever could. And if all else fails, remember it makes excellent firewood. It’s a win-win, really.
Verdict
So, are dead ash trees good for lumber? Yes, they can be, but it’s not a simple yes or no. You’ve got to be smart about it. Inspect carefully, mill and dry properly, and be realistic about your projects. The emerald ash borer might be a menace, but it doesn’t necessarily mean the end of that ash tree’s usefulness. You might just end up with some beautiful, character-filled wood that tells a story.
Don’t be afraid to experiment, but also don’t be afraid to walk away if the wood just isn’t there. It’s better to spend a little more on good material than to waste time and money on something that’s going to end up as dust or firewood anyway. But if you do find good quality dead ash, you’ve got a fantastic material on your hands.
Ultimately, the question of whether dead ash trees are good for lumber boils down to your willingness to do the work, understand the risks, and appreciate the unique qualities salvaged wood can offer. It’s a bit of a treasure hunt, and the rewards can be well worth the effort.
