I remember my dad wrestling with a half-finished cabinet back in the late 80s. He’d bought a bunch of supposedly “premium” hardwood planks, and let me tell you, they were anything but. Warped, riddled with knots that looked like they were planning a jailbreak, and so wet they felt like they’d just been logged. It was a masterclass in buyer’s remorse. So when I started looking into vintage wood for a project, the idea of a 1968 bocot of Union Lumber Co.’s wood products immediately sparked a bit of skepticism, mixed with a healthy dose of curiosity. Could lumber from that era actually hold up, or was it just another nostalgia trap?
This wasn’t about some fancy, mass-produced veneer. This was about taking a look at what Union Lumber Co. was putting out in the late 60s, a time when lumber yards felt more like workshops and less like sterile warehouses. I wanted to see if the stories about old-growth wood still held any water, or if it was all just smoke and mirrors from a bygone era.
That Grain, Though: What Sets Old Lumber Apart?
Look, I’m not going to sit here and tell you that every single board from 1968 is some kind of magical unicorn. But when you stumble upon good stuff, particularly from a company like Union Lumber Co. that had a reputation to uphold, there’s a tangible difference. I’m talking about wood that’s aged gracefully, not just sat in a barn collecting dust bunnies.
The first thing you notice is the density. It just feels heavier, more substantial. When you pick up a piece, it has a heft that most new construction lumber lacks. This isn’t just a subjective feeling; it’s often a result of old-growth trees that grew slower, developing tighter growth rings.
Think of it like a well-aged wine versus one straight off the bottling line. That slow, steady growth packs more fiber into every inch.
Then there’s the grain pattern. Forget those bland, uniform planks you see everywhere now. Old-growth wood, especially from species like Douglas Fir or Redwood that Union Lumber Co. was known for, often exhibits stunning, tight, and consistent grain.
It’s visually richer, more complex. You can see the history in those lines.
I once got my hands on some salvaged Douglas Fir that I swear came from a building that predates the 1970s, and the way the light played off those deep, caramel-colored growth rings was just breathtaking. It’s the kind of thing that makes a simple woodworking project sing. It’s not just wood; it’s a statement. You don’t get that same character from fast-growing, plantation-farmed timber that’s bred for quick harvests.
The old trees had time to develop all sorts of quirks and patterns that make each board unique. It’s why people hunt for this stuff, even if it means sifting through piles of less-than-ideal material. The reward for finding a truly exceptional piece is well worth the effort.
Another factor is dryness. Lumber from that era, especially if it was air-dried properly and stored well, is often significantly drier than kiln-dried lumber you buy today. Kiln drying is faster, sure, but it can also stress the wood, leading to more internal movement and potential for warping later on. Air-dried lumber, while taking longer, tends to be more stable.
I’ve had brand-new lumber that I had to let sit around for weeks, even months, just to let it acclimatize and settle down before I could even think about cutting it without it twisting into a pretzel. That’s not to say all old lumber is perfectly stable – wood is wood, after all – but the odds of finding well-seasoned, stable material are certainly higher with properly stored vintage stock. It’s the kind of wood that behaves itself when you’re working with it, which, trust me, is a massive relief.
The Union Lumber Co. Story: More Than Just a Name
So, who was Union Lumber Co., anyway? For anyone diving into older wood products, understanding the source is half the battle.
Union Lumber Co. was a big deal, particularly on the West Coast, operating for a long time and logging vast tracts of old-growth forest, primarily redwood and Douglas fir. They weren’t some fly-by-night operation. (See Also: Are Lumber Prices Going Up Again )
They were a major player, and that means they had standards, at least for their better grades. The fact that you can still find their wood, often bearing their stamps or markings, is a testament to its inherent quality and durability. It wasn’t just about hacking down trees; there was a process, a selection, and a grading system in place, even if it wasn’t as scientifically precise as today’s standards.
Now, here’s where my contrarian streak kicks in. Everyone talks about “old growth” like it’s some magical elixir.
And yeah, it’s great, if it was harvested and processed properly. I’ve seen plenty of old-growth wood that was stored poorly, exposed to the elements, and is now practically firewood.
The key isn’t just the age of the tree; it’s what happened to the wood after it was cut. Did it get air-dried for years? Was it kept out of the rain?
Was it stacked properly? Union Lumber Co. likely had some solid milling and drying practices for their prime stock.
They were selling to builders, architects, and furniture makers who expected a certain level of performance. They weren’t just churning out cheap construction studs; they were producing material that was meant to last and be admired. So, when you find a “bocot” – which, if we’re talking about a collected bundle or lot, implies a selection – from them, there’s a good chance it was intended to be their better quality stuff.
It’s also worth remembering the context of 1968. The environmental movement was gaining steam, but industrial logging was still in its prime. Companies like Union Lumber Co. were at the height of their operations, accessing timber that had been growing for centuries. This wasn’t second-growth, fast-cut lumber. This was the real deal. The sheer volume of timber they processed meant that even a small percentage of their output would be of exceptional quality. The challenge for us today is identifying that quality amidst the weathered, forgotten, or poorly stored remnants. It’s a treasure hunt, and knowing the history of Union Lumber Co. helps you appreciate what you’re looking for – and what you might be able to find.
What to Look for in Vintage Lumber
When you’re eyeing up a pile of what might be a 1968 bocot of Union Lumber Co.’s wood products, here’s what I look for:
- Species Identification: Can you tell if it’s Douglas Fir, Redwood, or something else? Union Lumber Co. was known for these. Look for characteristic colors, grain, and even smell (redwood has a distinct scent).
- Grain Tightness: Run your hand over it. Are the growth rings very close together? This indicates a slower-growing, older tree.
- Density and Hardness: Does it feel heavy? Is it difficult to dent with a fingernail? Dense wood is usually a good sign of quality.
- Markings: Look for any stamped logos, mill marks, or grade stamps. Union Lumber Co. often had distinctive markings.
- Signs of Proper Storage: Is it warped? Rotten? Heavily infested with bugs? While some weathering is inevitable, look for pieces that seem to have been relatively well-protected.
The Reality of Working with Old Wood
Alright, let’s talk about the actual doing. Working with vintage lumber, especially from a source like Union Lumber Co. in 1968, is a different beast than grabbing boards from your local big-box store.
First off, expect the unexpected. Nails. Seriously, so many nails.
And not just a few misplaced ones; I’m talking about old, often rusted, structural nails that are a nightmare to extract. I once spent three hours with a pry bar and hammer, sweating buckets, just trying to get a single eight-foot 2×6 free of its former life.
And when you finally get them out, you’re left with holes that you might need to fill, or worse, the wood around the nail head might be slightly degraded or splintered. (See Also: Are Lumber Prices Going To Continue To Rise )
Then there’s the sheer variability. Unlike modern lumber that’s often graded very strictly for uniformity, older wood can be all over the place.
You might have a board that’s incredibly dense and beautiful on one end, and then a section in the middle that’s softer, or has a large, unavoidable knot. You have to be willing to work with the wood, not fight against it. This means planning your cuts carefully, embracing the imperfections, and sometimes redesigning a part of your project on the fly because a particular board just won’t cooperate.
I learned this the hard way when I was building a simple bookshelf. I had this gorgeous piece of what I thought was clear Douglas Fir from a salvaged barn. I’d planned on using it for the main shelves. But halfway through, I hit a section that was riddled with pin knots and a few larger ones that were soft and crumbly.
I ended up having to cut around them and use smaller pieces for the shelves, making the whole thing look a bit more patchwork than I’d intended. It still works, but it wasn’t the pristine look I’d envisioned.
Dust. Oh, the dust. Old wood, especially if it’s been sitting in an old building or barn, can be incredibly dusty.
And it’s not just regular dust; it can be a mixture of old plaster, insulation, mouse droppings, and who knows what else. You absolutely need good personal protective equipment – a respirator mask is a must. I’ve had projects where the sheer amount of fine particulate matter released was staggering. It gets everywhere, and you don’t want to be breathing that in.
So, before you even start milling or cutting, a good brushing down, and maybe even a gentle wash with soap and water (if the wood can handle it), is a smart first step. It makes the material more pleasant to work with and safer for your lungs.
Comparing Old vs. New: A Practical Look
Let’s break down how a hypothetical piece of wood from a 1968 bocot of Union Lumber Co.’s wood products might stack up against something you’d buy today. It’s not always a slam dunk for the old stuff, but there are definite advantages. For instance, a piece of Douglas Fir from that era, properly aged, is likely to be considerably more stable and dense than a piece of new-growth Douglas Fir. The old-growth trees grew for centuries, developing incredibly tight growth rings. New growth, often from plantations, is harvested much younger, leading to faster growth and wider, less dense rings. This difference in density translates to strength, stability, and a richer visual texture.
However, new lumber has its own set of advantages. Modern kilns can dry lumber much faster and to very specific moisture content levels. This can result in lumber that is immediately ready to use and, in theory, less prone to movement than improperly seasoned old wood. Also, modern grading systems are incredibly sophisticated, allowing you to purchase lumber that is certified to be free of defects like knots, twists, or bows. If you need a perfectly straight, knot-free piece for a specific application, buying new might be the more straightforward route. But, and it’s a big but, you’re often sacrificing that unique character, that deep patina, and the sheer historical presence that comes with vintage lumber.
Here’s a quick comparison, keeping in mind this is a generalization:
| Feature | 1968 Union Lumber Co. (Hypothetical) | Modern Construction Lumber (Typical) | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Density/Ring Count | High (tight growth rings) | Lower (wider growth rings) | Vintage wins for character and stability. |
| Moisture Content | Variable, potentially very low if air-dried well | Controlled, consistent if kiln-dried properly | Tie, depending on storage and drying methods. |
| Defect Level | Highly variable, can be very clear or knotty | Graded for uniformity, can be defect-free at a premium | Modern wins for predictability, vintage wins for character. |
| Character/Patina | High (color, grain complexity) | Low (uniform, often bland) | Vintage wins, hands down. |
| Workability (Nails/Integrity) | Can be tough (old nails), wood itself is stable | Easier to work initially, potential for more movement | Vintage requires more prep, but can be more rewarding. |
The bottom line is that if you’re seeking character, a story, and a piece of history, vintage lumber is often superior. If you need absolute, predictable perfection for a high-precision build and don’t have the time or inclination to sift through old material, then new lumber might be your better bet. But for many projects, especially those where the wood is meant to be seen and appreciated, that old Union Lumber Co. stock has a lot to offer.
Common Mistakes When Buying Old Wood
I’ve seen people get burned, and I’ve burned myself plenty of times. One of the biggest mistakes is falling in love with the idea of old wood without inspecting the actual product. You see a weathered, barn-wood-looking plank and assume it’s gold. Nope. You need to get hands-on. Check for rot, especially at the ends and any knot holes. Tap it with a hammer – does it sound hollow or soft? That’s a bad sign. I once bought a load of “antique barn wood” that looked fantastic, only to discover once I started milling that large sections were riddled with dry rot. I had to salvage maybe 30% of it. Lesson learned: appearance isn’t everything. (See Also: Are Lumber Prices Going To Go Up )
Another common pitfall is not accounting for hidden structural damage or insect infestation. Old wood can look great on the surface but be riddled with the tunnels of powderpost beetles or carpenter ants. You might not see the damage until you start cutting. Sometimes, the damage is so extensive that the structural integrity of the board is compromised.
This is especially important if you’re using the wood for anything structural. Always ask if the wood has been treated for pests or inspected. If you can’t tell, assume the worst and proceed with caution, perhaps using it for decorative elements rather than load-bearing parts.
I’ve had to discard entire projects because I underestimated the extent of an insect infestation in what looked like a perfectly good piece of lumber.
Then there’s the issue of moisture. People often assume old wood is dry, and while it can be, it’s not a guarantee. If the wood was stored in a damp basement or exposed to the elements for decades, it could still hold a significant amount of moisture. This will cause it to warp, twist, and shrink unpredictably once you bring it into a climate-controlled environment and start working with it.
Before you commit to buying a large quantity, if possible, try to get a moisture meter and check a few pieces. If you don’t have one, look for signs like cupping, checking (cracks), or a generally soft feel. If it feels unusually heavy for its size, it’s probably still too wet.
It’s much better to pay a little extra for wood that’s already seasoned than to spend time and money on material that’s going to fight you every step of the way and potentially ruin your project.
People Also Ask:
Is Old Lumber Still Good?
Yes, old lumber can be excellent, often exhibiting greater density, tighter grain, and superior stability compared to new construction lumber, especially if it’s from old-growth trees and was properly air-dried and stored. However, condition is key; rotten, insect-infested, or severely warped old lumber is not good. Always inspect carefully.
What Is the Best Wood From the 1960s?
The “best” wood from the 1960s generally refers to old-growth hardwoods and softwoods that were available then. This includes species like Douglas Fir, Redwood, Oak, Mahogany, and Walnut, which were often harvested from mature trees. Quality was highly dependent on the specific mill, its grading standards, and how the lumber was stored.
Is Old Growth Wood Better?
Old-growth wood is generally considered superior due to its density, tight grain, and natural stability, resulting from trees growing slowly over centuries. This makes it more resistant to warping, shrinking, and insect damage. However, its availability is limited, and its quality still depends on proper milling and drying practices.
What Makes Old Lumber Valuable?
Old lumber is valuable for several reasons: its inherent quality (density, grain from old-growth trees), its historical significance, its unique character and patina, and its potential for use in restoration projects or high-end woodworking where its aesthetic and structural properties are prized. Its scarcity also drives up its value.
Verdict
So, to wrap this up: a 1968 bocot of Union Lumber Co.’s wood products isn’t a guaranteed jackpot, but it’s absolutely worth investigating if you find one. You’re looking for that unmistakable density, the tight grain that speaks of slow, patient growth, and a general sense of solid character that most new lumber just can’t replicate. Be prepared for the hunt, though. It means sifting through potential duds, dealing with stubborn old nails, and bringing your best inspection game to avoid rot and pests. It’s not a simple transaction; it’s an endeavor.
If you’re building something where the wood itself is a feature, where you want that patina and history to show, then digging for vintage stock like this is one of the most rewarding things you can do. You’re not just buying wood; you’re buying a piece of history that still has a story to tell. Just make sure you’re not buying a headache disguised as a bargain. A good bit of old-growth lumber can outlast many modern buildings, so choose wisely.
My advice? If you see a promising lot, do your due diligence. Poke it, prod it, smell it. If it feels right and looks promising, take a chance. You might just find yourself with some of the best woodworking material you’ve ever had the pleasure of using.
