I remember staring at that freshly painted wall, the one I’d spent days meticulously brushing and rolling, only to see a faint roller mark every time the light hit it just right. It drove me insane. You want that smooth, factory-perfect finish, and sometimes brushing and rolling just doesn’t cut it. So, the question on many DIYers’ minds, especially those eyeing a high-quality finish, is: can Benjamin Moore Advance paint be sprayed? The short answer is yes, but it’s not quite as simple as just pouring it into a sprayer and hitting the trigger.
Benjamin Moore Advance is a premium interior paint, lauded for its durability and smooth finish. It’s designed to mimic the look and feel of oil-based paints without the harsh fumes or cleanup issues. But how does that translate to spray application? It’s a bit of a dance between getting the right consistency and using the right gear.
Let’s just get it out there: can Benjamin Moore Advance paint be sprayed? Yes, it absolutely can, but you need to know what you’re doing to avoid a sloppy mess.
Spraying Advance Paint: The Good, the Bad, and the Thinned
Look, Benjamin Moore Advance is a fantastic paint. I’ve used it on trim, doors, and even entire rooms when I’ve had the time and patience for a brush-and-roll job. It levels out beautifully, giving you that hard-shell finish that stands up to abuse. But when you start thinking about spraying it, things get a little more complicated.
The inherent thickness that makes it so durable and smooth when brushed or rolled can become a real pain in the sprayer. It’s a high-solids paint, which is great for coverage, but it means it’s pretty viscous straight out of the can. Trying to push that thick stuff through a fine spray tip usually ends in spitting, clogging, and a whole lot of frustration. I learned that the hard way on a cabinet project.
I thought, ‘It’s Benjamin Moore, it’ll spray fine!’ Wrong. I ended up with drips the size of golf balls and a finish that looked like I’d attacked the cabinets with a textured roller.
The key to successfully spraying Benjamin Moore Advance is thinning it. This isn’t a paint you can just pour into your sprayer and expect perfection. You’ll need to add a paint conditioner or a specific thinning agent.
Benjamin Moore themselves recommend thinning their Alkyd Urethane paint (which Advance is a waterborne version of) for spraying. They suggest adding a paint conditioner like Floetrol or a similar product, but you have to be careful not to overdo it.
Too much thinner and you compromise the paint’s integrity, its durability, and its ability to cure properly. You’re aiming for a consistency that flows smoothly through your spray gun without losing its body. This usually means thinning it by about 5-10%, but you absolutely must test this on a piece of cardboard or scrap wood before you even think about spraying your actual project.
There’s a common piece of advice out there that you shouldn’t thin Advance paint at all for spraying. I flat-out disagree. While you can sometimes get away with it if you have an extremely powerful sprayer with a very large tip and are willing to accept a less-than-perfect finish, for a truly professional, smooth outcome, thinning is almost always necessary. The paint needs to atomize properly. If it’s too thick, it won’t break down into a fine mist; it’ll come out in chunks or splatters. That’s not spraying; that’s just making a mess with a sprayer. (See Also: Can Craft Foam Be Spray Painted )
The Right Gear: What You Actually Need to Spray Advance
So, you’ve decided to go ahead and thin your Benjamin Moore Advance paint. Great. Now, what kind of sprayer are we talking about? Forget those cheap handheld sprayers you see advertised everywhere. They simply don’t have the power or the finesse to handle a paint like Advance, even when thinned. You need a proper airless sprayer or a high-volume, low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer, and even then, you need to choose the right components.
For an airless sprayer, which is what most pros use for this kind of job, you need a machine that can deliver a consistent, high-pressure flow. Think something in the .015 to .019 tip range. Anything smaller and you’ll struggle to get the paint out; anything larger might throw too much paint and create runs. You also need a sprayer that can handle the pressure required to atomize the thinned paint effectively. A unit with a GPM (gallons per minute) of at least 0.5 is a good starting point for this type of paint. Brands like Graco or Titan make excellent airless sprayers that can handle semi-gloss and enamel finishes like Advance.
If you’re leaning towards an HVLP sprayer, you’ll need a unit with a powerful turbine. These sprayers use a large volume of air at low pressure to atomize the paint. They are generally better for finer finishes and less overspray than airless, but they can sometimes struggle with thicker paints like Advance unless you have a really solid system. Look for a unit that comes with multiple tips and air caps so you can adjust the spray pattern and flow. You’ll want a larger cup size too, because you’ll be spraying a fair bit of thinned paint.
Beyond the sprayer itself, you’ll need good quality masking materials. Masking tape, plastic sheeting, drop cloths – the works. Spraying creates a lot of overspray, and you don’t want Advance paint ending up on your windows, your ceiling, or your furniture. I once underestimated the overspray on a trim job and spent three hours wiping down a perfectly good oak floor that I hadn’t covered thoroughly enough. Lesson learned: cover everything, twice.
Choosing Your Thinning Agent: Conditioner vs. Water
This is where people get really confused. Can you just add water to Benjamin Moore Advance to thin it for spraying? Benjamin Moore states that Advance is a waterborne alkyd, so in theory, a little bit of water might seem like the obvious choice. However, and this is a big ‘however,’ adding plain water can sometimes affect the paint’s sheen and its durability. It can also lead to a less smooth finish.
Your best bet is to use a dedicated paint conditioner specifically designed for latex or waterborne paints. Products like Floetrol are formulated to improve the flow and leveling of paint while also acting as a thinning agent. They basically make the paint more slippery, allowing it to pass through the sprayer more easily and atomize better without degrading the paint’s core properties as much as plain water might. Some people also use a specific paint thinner for waterborne paints, but always, always check the paint can’s label and the thinner’s label to make sure compatibility.
My personal go-to is Floetrol, because I’ve had consistently good results with it across various water-based enamels. It seems to strike the right balance. But here’s the real kicker: the amount you need is highly variable.
It depends on the specific batch of paint, the ambient temperature, and the humidity. You can’t just slap in a pre-measured amount and call it a day. You’ve got to do the ‘stir and test’ method.
Mix a small amount, stir it thoroughly, and then test its viscosity. A good way to do this is with a viscosity cup (like a #2 Zahn cup) or even just by seeing how it streams off a stir stick. You want it to flow freely but not be watery. (See Also: Can Aluminum Be Spray Painted )
The Process: Step-by-Step to a Sprayed Finish
Alright, you’ve got the paint, you’ve got the sprayer, you’ve got your thinning agent. Now, let’s get this done without turning your house into a Jackson Pollock painting. This process is how I approach spraying Advance, and it usually gets me a clean, professional look.
- Prep is King: This cannot be stressed enough. Mask off everything you don’t want painted. Use painter’s tape for clean lines and plastic sheeting or old sheets for larger areas. Open flame detectors, light switches, door frames – cover them all.
- Thin the Paint: In a separate, clean bucket, pour about a gallon of your Benjamin Moore Advance paint. Start by adding your thinning agent (e.g., Floetrol) a little at a time, maybe starting with 4-6 ounces per gallon. Stir thoroughly with a paint stirrer, making sure the conditioner is completely incorporated. Don’t just swirl it; get down to the bottom and make sure you’re mixing it in.
- Test the Viscosity: Dip a stir stick into the thinned paint. It should flow off in a smooth, steady stream. If it’s too thick and breaks into drips quickly, add a little more conditioner and stir again. If it seems too thin, you’ve gone too far. For spraying, you’re aiming for a consistency that’s like heavy cream.
- Set Up Your Sprayer: Attach the appropriate tip (e.g., .015-.019 for airless) and prime the pump according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure your intake filter is clean.
- Perform a Test Spray: Before you hit your project, spray a large piece of cardboard or scrap wood. Adjust your sprayer’s pressure and the pattern width to get an even, consistent fan. Look for any spitting or uneven coverage. If you see runs or drips, your paint might still be too thick, or your pressure is too high. If the pattern is uneven, you might need to adjust the tip or pressure.
- Spray in Sections: Work in manageable sections. Start spraying a few inches away from your surface, move your gun in a steady, overlapping pass, and then stop spraying a few inches past your target. Overlap each pass by about 50% to make sure even coverage. Keep your gun parallel to the surface and move your arm, not just your wrist.
- Watch for Runs and Drips: Even with careful thinning and spraying, runs can happen. Keep a wet rag handy to catch any drips before they dry. If you get a significant run, you might need to wipe it off and re-spray the section.
- Second Coat (if needed): Allow the first coat to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions before applying a second coat. This is where you’ll really see the benefits of thinning and proper technique.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
I’ve made my fair share of mistakes when spraying paint, and many of them revolve around rushing the process or not understanding the properties of the paint itself. When it comes to Benjamin Moore Advance, the biggest pitfall is not thinning it enough, or thinning it too much. Too little thinner means clogged tips, poor atomization, and a terrible finish. Too much thinner, and you’re basically diluting the paint, which can lead to poor coverage, a weaker film, and potentially a different sheen than you intended. It’s a delicate balance.
Another common mistake is using the wrong spray tip. People often think ‘bigger is better’ or ‘smaller is finer.’ With Advance, you need a tip that’s designed for enamels or semi-glosses, and the size needs to be matched to your sprayer’s capability and the paint’s viscosity. A tip that’s too small will clog immediately. A tip that’s too large will blast paint everywhere and make it impossible to control. Benjamin Moore’s own technical data sheets for spraying recommend specific tip sizes, and it’s worth checking those out.
Here’s a quick rundown of things to absolutely avoid:
| Mistake | Why It’s Bad | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Not thinning enough | Clogs, spitting, uneven coverage, poor atomization. | Terrible finish, lots of rework. Avoid. |
| Over-thinning | Compromised durability, sheen change, poor coverage. | Paint doesn’t perform as advertised. Don’t do it. |
| Using the wrong spray tip | Clogging, excessive overspray, or poor atomization. | Frustration and a ruined finish. Get the right tip. |
| Skimping on prep work | Paint on unwanted surfaces, difficult cleanup. | Hours of extra cleaning. Cover everything. |
| Spraying too close or too far | Runs, drips, or uneven, dusty finish. | Inconsistent look. Maintain consistent distance. |
Finally, people often forget about temperature and humidity. Spraying in extreme conditions – too hot, too cold, or too humid – can affect how the paint dries and cures. This can lead to issues like blushing (a milky appearance) or slow drying times, making you more prone to runs and smudges. Benjamin Moore Advance, like most paints, prefers moderate temperatures, typically between 50°F and 85°F (10°C and 30°C), with relative humidity below 70%.
Real-World Use: Where Spraying Advance Shines (and Where It Doesn’t)
So, is spraying Benjamin Moore Advance always the best option? Honestly, no. It depends on the project. For cabinet doors or trim, spraying is often the superior method. You can get an incredibly smooth, factory-like finish that’s almost impossible to achieve with a brush or roller. The ability to lay down thin, even coats is key here. I sprayed my kitchen cabinets with Advance, and the result was night and day compared to when I tried to brush them years ago. It took a lot of prep, a lot of masking, and a lot of patience, but the finish is something I’m really proud of. The hardness of the paint really comes through when sprayed.
However, for large, flat walls in a residential setting, especially if you’re not a seasoned sprayer, brushing and rolling might still be your best bet. The prep work for spraying walls is extensive – moving all furniture, masking baseboards, ceilings, windows, etc. – and the cleanup can be just as time-consuming. If you’re painting a bedroom or living room and you’re comfortable with a good quality roller and brush, you can achieve a beautiful finish with Advance without the complexities of spraying. The self-leveling properties of Advance mean it smooths out roller marks quite well.
What about ceilings? Generally, I’d say skip spraying Advance on ceilings unless you have a very specific reason and a very well-controlled environment. It’s a heavy paint, and spraying it overhead increases the risk of drips and sags significantly. Plus, the cleanup of overspray on a textured ceiling is a nightmare. For ceilings, a good quality ceiling paint applied with a roller is usually the way to go.
The durability of Advance paint is a huge selling point, and when sprayed correctly, that durability is maintained. It’s a waterborne alkyd hybrid, meaning it has the hardness and smoothness of an oil-based enamel but with the easier cleanup of latex. This makes it fantastic for high-traffic areas, doors, and trim that get a lot of wear and tear. The sprayed finish, when done right, is incredibly resilient and easy to clean. (See Also: Can Bug Spray Damage Car Paint )
Faq: Your Burning Questions Answered
How Much Thinner Do I Add to Benjamin Moore Advance for Spraying?
Benjamin Moore recommends thinning Advance paint for spraying by about 5-10%. This typically translates to about 4 to 8 ounces of thinning agent (like Floetrol or a paint conditioner) per gallon of paint. However, this is a guideline. You MUST test the viscosity by stirring and observing how the paint flows off a stick. The goal is a smooth, steady stream, not watery. Always add the conditioner gradually and stir thoroughly.
Can I Use a Regular Latex Paint Thinner with Benjamin Moore Advance?
For Benjamin Moore Advance, which is a waterborne alkyd hybrid, it’s best to use a dedicated paint conditioner designed for latex or waterborne paints, such as Floetrol. While some general-purpose paint thinners might work, they can sometimes affect the sheen, adhesion, or durability of the paint. Always check the compatibility of the thinner with the paint manufacturer’s recommendations and the thinner’s product label to avoid compromising the paint’s performance.
What Is the Best Spray Tip Size for Benjamin Moore Advance?
For spraying Benjamin Moore Advance paint with an airless sprayer, a tip size between .015 and .019 inches is generally recommended. These sizes provide a good balance for atomizing the paint effectively while controlling the flow rate. If you are using an HVLP sprayer, the tip size recommendations will vary greatly depending on the specific model and turbine power, so consult your sprayer’s manual. Always perform a test spray on scrap material to make sure your tip and pressure settings are correct.
What Pressure Should I Use to Spray Benjamin Moore Advance?
The recommended spray pressure for Benjamin Moore Advance will vary depending on the type of sprayer (airless vs. HVLP) and the specific tip size you are using. For airless sprayers, start with the manufacturer’s recommended pressure for the chosen tip size and then adjust as needed. You’ll want enough pressure to create a fine mist without excessive overspray or spitting. Often, this means starting at the lower end of the recommended range for your tip and gradually increasing until you achieve an even fan pattern. For HVLP sprayers, the pressure is more about air volume, and you’ll adjust based on the turbine settings and air cap.
Can Benjamin Moore Advance Be Sprayed Without Thinning?
While it is technically possible to spray Benjamin Moore Advance without thinning if you have a very powerful sprayer with a large tip and are willing to accept a less-than-perfect finish, it is not recommended for achieving a smooth, professional result. The paint is quite viscous, and without thinning, it is prone to clogging, spitting, and poor atomization, leading to an uneven and potentially messy finish. For optimal results, thinning is almost always necessary.
Final Verdict
So, can Benjamin Moore Advance paint be sprayed? The answer is a resounding yes, but with a important caveat: you need to prepare properly and understand that thinning is almost always part of the equation. Don’t just assume it’ll spray like a thinner, cheaper paint straight from the can. That’s a recipe for disaster.
If you’re aiming for that super-smooth, durable finish on cabinets or trim, spraying Advance is absolutely worth the effort. Just remember the prep work, the thinning tests, and the right equipment. If you’re painting a large wall and are comfortable with a roller, honestly, you might save yourself a lot of hassle and get a great result without the sprayer.
Ultimately, whether you spray Benjamin Moore Advance paint or not comes down to your project, your skill level, and your patience. Just don’t be the guy who tries to spray it straight from the can and ends up calling me for advice on how to fix a drippy, clumpy mess.
