I remember staring at a brand new box of Space Marines, the plastic crisp and smelling faintly of new car. I’d just spent a small fortune on paints, brushes, and a whole mess of other gear, convinced I was about to churn out an army that would make the Emperor weep with joy. Then came the dreaded base coat. Airbrush? Sure, if you’ve got the lungs of a marathon runner and the budget of a small nation. Brush? I’d heard horror stories of thick, gloopy messes that hid all that lovely detail.
So, to answer the burning question: Can I brush a base paint on my 40k minis? Absolutely. But don’t just slap it on like you’re painting a fence. There’s a knack to it, and a few tricks that separate a smooth, even coat from a textured disaster.
The Skeptic’s Guide to Brushing Base Coats
Look, I get it. The internet is awash with folks telling you an airbrush is the only way to get a decent base coat on your Warhammer 40,000 miniatures. They talk about razor-thin layers, perfect gradients, and how you’re basically spitting in the face of the hobby if you dare to use a brush for this fundamental step. Honestly? That’s a load of bollocks for most of us.
I’ve wasted more money than I care to admit on gear I didn’t need when I first started. I fell for the hype. I bought an airbrush kit, spent hours cleaning it, and managed to spray myself more effectively than my miniatures. The result was patchy, streaky, and frankly, depressing. It wasn’t the magical shortcut everyone promised; it was a whole new layer of frustration. This is why I’m here to tell you, with absolute certainty, that can I brush a base paint on my 40k minis is a resounding yes, and for many, it’s the more practical, and dare I say, enjoyable route.
The key isn’t the tool; it’s the technique. Most of the problems people encounter stem from using paint straight from the pot, like it’s some magical elixir that applies itself perfectly. Newsflash: it’s not. It’s acrylic paint, and it needs a little coaxing. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t pour undiluted glue onto a model, would you? Paint is no different. Water is your friend here, but not too much. We’re aiming for a consistency that flows smoothly off the brush but doesn’t instantly bead or run off the plastic. It should feel like melted ice cream – not watery soup, and definitely not toothpaste.
My first real success with brush-on base coats came after I’d almost given up. I was working on some Eldar Guardians, those spindly little dudes that require a steady hand. I’d thinned my paints previously, but I’d gone too far, ended up with five coats that were barely opaque, and the paint job looked like it had been attacked by a fine mist of saliva. Then, I tried again, this time with a dedicated flow improver and a medium. The difference was night and day. The paint flowed, it settled, and importantly, it covered evenly in just two coats. It felt less like a chore and more like… well, painting.
Let’s talk about coverage. A good base coat needs to cover the primer, providing a solid, uniform colour for the rest of your scheme. If you’re seeing the primer peeking through after two coats, something’s wrong. Either your paint is too thin, or you’re not using enough coats. But here’s the trick: don’t try to get perfect coverage in the first coat. Aim for a decent, semi-transparent layer. The second coat will then fill in the gaps and achieve that smooth, unbroken surface. This is where patience really pays off. Rushing it leads to thick, ugly coats that obscure detail.
Choosing Your Weapon: Paints and Brushes That Don’t Suck
Alright, so you’ve decided to embrace the brush. Smart move. Now, what are you actually going to be brushing with? Not all paints are created equal, and neither are all brushes. Forget those cheap multi-packs you find at the dollar store; they’ll shed bristles like a moulting dog and leave your minis looking like they’ve been attacked by a fuzzy caterpillar.
For brushing base coats, especially on miniatures, you want paints that are formulated to be thinned. Most acrylics designed for miniatures are good for this. Brands like Citadel (Games Workshop), Vallejo, Army Painter, and Scale 75 are generally excellent. They have a good pigment load, meaning they cover well when thinned, and they have a smooth consistency. However, even with the best paints, you’ll need to thin them. Straight from the pot, they’re usually too thick for smooth, even application on tiny plastic models. It’s like trying to paint a portrait with house paint – you’ll lose all the subtlety.
Here’s where the ‘how-to’ really kicks in. Your thinning medium is your best friend. You can use plain water, but it can break down the binder in the paint, making it less durable and more prone to chipping. Better options include dedicated acrylic mediums. Vallejo Airbrush Thinner is surprisingly good for brush thinning too, as is their Glaze Medium or Airbrush Flow Improver. Citadel’s Lahmian Medium is specifically designed for thinning and glazing, and it works a treat. Army Painter’s Quickshades Medium or their new Colour Primer spray cans (which are actually paints, not primers, confusingly) can also be thinned and brushed.
The ratio is key. I usually start with about 1 part paint to 1 or 2 parts medium (or water). Mix it on your palette until it has the consistency of milk or melted ice cream. Dip your brush in, wipe off the excess on a paper towel, and then apply. You’re looking for a smooth, translucent coat that covers but doesn’t obscure detail. If you can still see the primer clearly, it’s probably too thin. If it’s thick and gloopy, it’s too concentrated. This is where practice makes perfect. You’ll develop a feel for it.
As for brushes, for base coating, you want something that holds a decent amount of paint and has a good point, but doesn’t need to be microscopic. A size 0, 1, or 2 synthetic or sable brush is usually a good starting point. Synthetic brushes are more durable and cheaper, while sable brushes hold more paint and have a better snap (they return to their original shape better). I’ve found that a good synthetic brush from a reputable hobby brand like Citadel, Vallejo, or Army Painter is more than capable of getting the job done. Don’t go overboard on the fancy sable brushes for base coats; save those for fine detail work.
A common mistake is using a brush that’s too small. A tiny brush holds very little paint, meaning you’re constantly dipping and reapplying, which leads to uneven coats and brush strokes. A slightly larger brush, with a good belly to hold paint, will cover larger areas more smoothly and with fewer strokes. You’re not trying to paint a single strand of hair with your base coat brush; you’re laying down a broad, even layer of colour.
Brush Selection for Base Coating
| Brush Type | Pros | Cons | Verdict for Base Coating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Synthetic (Hobby Grade) | Durable, affordable, good paint retention, holds a point well. | Can sometimes feel a bit stiff, may not hold as much paint as sable. | Excellent. Your go-to for most base coating needs. |
| Sable (Artist Grade) | Superior paint retention, excellent snap, very fine points. | Expensive, less durable, can be damaged by aggressive cleaning. | Overkill for base coating, but can be used if you already own them. Better for detail. |
| Flat/Shader Brushes | Wide coverage for larger areas. | Can leave distinct brush strokes if not used carefully. | Can be useful for vehicles or large monsters, but less so for infantry. |
| Old/Rough Brushes | You probably already have some. | Shed bristles, inconsistent application, generally awful. | Avoid like the plague. Seriously. |
The Two-Coat Rule and Why It’s Not Always Enough
The golden rule for brush-on base coats is the ‘two-coat rule’. It sounds simple enough: apply one thin coat, let it dry, apply a second thin coat. This usually gives you good, solid coverage without obscuring detail. But here’s the contrarian take: sometimes, two coats just isn’t enough, and forcing it will ruin your mini. Everyone says two coats is the magic number, but I’ve had plenty of paints, especially lighter colours like yellows or whites, that need a third, sometimes even a fourth, thin coat to achieve true opacity without looking chalky or thick. (See Also: Can Acrylic Paint Go In An Air Brush )
My first attempt at a yellow Ork skin was a disaster because I stuck rigidly to the ‘two-coat rule’. I used a yellow that was notoriously thin, and after two coats, the green primer was still showing through in patches. I tried to ‘touch up’ the third coat, which ended up being a thicker application in some areas, leading to a patchy, streaky mess. It looked like I’d spilled mustard on my model. The common advice is wrong here because it doesn’t account for pigment opacity differences between colours. Some pigments are just naturally more transparent.
What’s more important than the number of coats is the quality of each coat. Are they thin? Are they consistent? Do they leave smooth, even coverage? If the answer is yes, then three or even four thin coats are perfectly fine. If your paint is starting to look thick, or you’re losing the sculpted detail, you’ve gone too far. That’s when you need to step back. Sometimes, it’s better to have a slightly less opaque coat that looks good than a perfectly opaque coat that looks like it’s been coated in dried mud.
This is where drying time becomes incredibly important. When you’re rushing, you’re more likely to apply a second coat while the first is still tacky. This can lift the underlying paint, causing a mess. Always let your paint dry completely between coats. For acrylics, this means at least 10-15 minutes, but longer is better, especially in humid conditions. You can gently touch a raised edge of the model; if it feels sticky or pulls away, it’s not dry yet.
Another factor is the type of paint. Some paints, particularly metallics, can be a bit more forgiving with thinner coats due to the way the metallic flakes catch the light. However, vibrant colours and deep reds or blues can also be tricky.
If you’re using a very light colour like white or yellow, you might find yourself using a dedicated white or yellow primer underneath to reduce the number of coats needed. This is a common technique that saves a lot of hassle.
I once spent an entire evening trying to get a clean white coat on a squad of Necron warriors using white paint. It was soul-destroying. Switching to a white primer for that army would have saved me hours and hours of frustration.
The ultimate goal is a smooth, uniform colour that serves as a perfect foundation. It’s not about how many coats it takes; it’s about achieving that result without damaging the model or your sanity. If that means three thin coats of a particular colour, so be it.
Common Pitfalls: What Not to Do When Brushing Base Coats
You’ve got your paints, your brushes, and you’re ready to go. But before you dive in headfirst, let’s talk about the classic blunders that turn a simple base coat into a miniature disaster. These are the mistakes I’ve made, the ones I’ve seen others make, and the reasons why some people swear off brushing base coats forever.
First up: using paint straight from the pot. I’ve already touched on this, but it bears repeating. It’s too thick. It’ll go on clumpy, hide detail, and you’ll end up with a texture that looks like dried cottage cheese. Always thin your paint. Always. This is a must for a good brush-on base coat.
Second, over-thinning. On the flip side, if you add too much water or medium, your paint will be runny, streaky, and won’t cover properly. You’ll end up needing way more coats than you should, and the paint might not adhere well or be as durable. Finding that sweet spot – the consistency of melted ice cream or milk – is vital. This is where a wet palette is your best friend. It keeps your paints from drying out and allows you to control the thinning much better than a dry palette. I’ve had my current wet palette for about three years and it’s still going strong – a small investment that pays massive dividends.
Third, not cleaning your brush properly. If you don’t rinse out all the paint from your brush between colours or before you put it away, the dried paint will ruin the bristles. You’ll end up with a splayed, useless brush that leaves horrible streaks. Keep a pot of clean water handy and rinse thoroughly. A brush soap or conditioner is a good idea for when you’re finished painting for the day.
Fourth, applying paint in the wrong direction. When you’re brushing, try to apply paint in smooth, consistent strokes. For larger flat areas, go in one direction. For curved surfaces, try to follow the contour of the model. Avoid back-and-forth scrubbing, which can create visible brush marks. Think about how paint flows; try to mimic that. Some people swear by a criss-cross pattern, but I find single, smooth strokes are generally better for base coats.
Fifth, rushing the drying time. I’ve already mentioned this, but it’s a big one. Painting wet-on-tacky paint is a recipe for disaster. You’ll lift the underlying layer, creating a muddy, uneven mess. Be patient. Let each layer dry completely before applying the next. A cheap desk fan on a low setting can help speed up drying without blowing your miniatures across the room. (See Also: Can Acrylic Paints Be Used In An Aqua Brush )
Finally, using the wrong brush. Trying to base coat a large area with a tiny detail brush is an exercise in futility. You’ll spend ages painting tiny patches, and it’ll never look smooth. Conversely, using a huge brush on a small model will result in clumsy strokes. Pick a brush that’s appropriate for the area you’re painting. A size 1 or 2 synthetic brush is usually a good all-rounder for infantry.
Common Brush Base Coating Errors
- Using paint straight from the pot (too thick).
- Over-thinning paint (too watery, poor coverage).
- Not cleaning brushes properly (ruined bristles).
- Applying paint with chaotic, scrubbing strokes.
- Not allowing adequate drying time between coats.
- Using a brush that’s the wrong size for the job.
Real-World Application: Vehicles, Monsters, and Infantry
So, how does the whole ‘can I brush a base paint on my 40k minis’ question play out across different types of models? The principles remain the same, but the execution might vary slightly. For infantry, like your standard Space Marines or Guardsmen, you’re dealing with relatively small, complex shapes. This is where thinning is most important. You want those coats to be thin enough to flow into the recesses and around the details without pooling too much.
My personal experience with Space Marines was a revelation when I finally got the thinning right. The armour plates stayed sharp, the trim didn’t get clogged with paint, and the overall look was clean and crisp. I remember painting a squad of Ultramarines where I’d initially used a thicker coat. The pauldrons looked chunky, and the details on their chest eagles were almost completely obscured. After stripping them and starting again with thinned coats, the difference was night and day. It took more layers, sure, but the result was so much better.
For larger models, like tanks, Dreadnoughts, or monsters, the approach can be a little different. You have larger, flatter surfaces where brush strokes can become very apparent if you’re not careful. This is where you might consider using slightly larger brushes, perhaps a size 2 or 3, and focusing on smooth, consistent strokes.
Some people even use a slightly larger brush and apply the paint in a criss-cross pattern to help blend the strokes, but I still favour long, smooth strokes in a single direction for the cleanest finish. The key is to avoid ‘scrubbing’ the paint on.
Think of it as gliding the brush across the surface. If you’re painting a bright colour on a large vehicle, consider using a primer in that colour or a colour that complements it. For instance, a yellow vehicle might benefit from a light grey or even a white primer to help the yellow pop and reduce the number of coats needed.
Monsters are a bit of a mixed bag. A Tyranid Warrior, for example, has a lot of organic curves and texture, similar to infantry but on a larger scale. A Warboss or a Greater Daemon, on the other hand, might have vast, flat areas of skin or armour. For these, the same principles apply: thin your paints, use appropriate brush sizes, and aim for smooth, even coverage. If a monster has really deep, organic textures, sometimes a slightly thicker, less thinned coat can actually enhance that texture, but this is more of an artistic choice than a standard base coating technique. When in doubt, stick to thin coats.
One of the areas where brush-on base coats can really shine is with vehicles. While airbrushing is often touted as the ultimate for vehicles, a well-executed brush-on base coat can look fantastic and is far more accessible. Imagine painting a Rhino or a Leman Russ. You’ve got large panels to cover.
If you use a brush that holds a good amount of paint and apply it with smooth, deliberate strokes, you can achieve excellent results. The key here is patience and multiple thin layers. Don’t try to get perfect coverage in one go. Let each layer dry, and build up the opacity gradually.
This prevents pooling in the panel lines and makes sure a smooth, professional finish. I’ve found that army painter’s Warpaints can be quite good for this, as they tend to flow well and cover nicely in 2-3 thin coats.
Ultimately, the question isn’t if you can brush a base coat, but if you’re willing to put in the effort to do it well. It’s about understanding your paints, your tools, and your own patience levels. For most people, especially those just starting out or with limited space and budget, brushing is not only viable but often the best option.
A Few Practical Tips That Actually Work
I’ve learned a lot of lessons the hard way in this hobby, and when it comes to base coating with a brush, a few simple tips can make a world of difference. These aren’t revolutionary, but they’re the kind of advice that separates a frustrating experience from a productive one. They’re the bread and butter of getting your army painted without wanting to throw your brushes at the wall.
First off, get a wet palette. Seriously. If you’re serious about miniature painting, a wet palette is probably the single best investment you can make. It keeps your acrylic paints moist for hours, allowing you to thin them down to the perfect consistency without them drying out on you. This makes painting so much more enjoyable and the results so much smoother. You can buy one or make one for a few bucks. I’ve been using the same homemade one for years. (See Also: A Brushes Digital Painting )
Second, use a layering approach. Don’t try to get opaque coverage in one go. Apply a thin, almost translucent coat. Let it dry. Then apply a second coat. Then a third, if necessary. This builds up coverage slowly and smoothly, preserving detail. This also gives you an opportunity to spot any areas you might have missed on the first pass. It’s like building up a watercolour painting; you add layers gradually.
Third, test your consistency on your thumb or a spare piece of plastic. Before you hit your actual model, do a quick test stroke on your thumb or a spare bit of sprue. You’re looking for that smooth, milky consistency. If it beads up or runs off your thumb instantly, it’s too thin. If it drags and leaves thick streaks, it’s too thick. It sounds daft, but it’s a quick and dirty way to check without risking your actual miniature.
Fourth, clean your brush thoroughly between colours and at the end of your session. Dried paint on the ferrule (where the bristles meet the handle) will ruin your brush’s shape and cause splaying. A brush that’s not clean won’t hold a point and will leave horrible, fuzzy strokes. Invest in a good brush soap or cleaner for when you’re done for the day.
Fifth, don’t be afraid to use a colour primer that matches your base coat. If you’re painting an army that’s predominantly yellow, for example, priming them with a yellow primer will save you countless hours and coats compared to starting with black or grey. While it’s common to prime black, it’s not always the best approach for every colour scheme. Many manufacturers offer a range of coloured primers, and using them strategically can make your base coating phase much, much easier. This is a trick I only learned a few years ago, and it’s a total big deal for certain colours.
Sixth, and this is a big one for me: take breaks. Staring at a tiny model for hours on end will strain your eyes and your patience. Step away, stretch, get some fresh air. Come back with a clear head. You’ll paint better and enjoy it more. Trying to push through fatigue almost always leads to mistakes and frustration. A clear head makes for a better brush stroke, every single time. And remember, it’s a hobby. It’s supposed to be fun!
Faq: Your Burning Questions Answered
Can I Use Craft Paint for Base Coating My 40k Minis?
Technically, yes, you can use craft paints. However, they are generally not formulated for miniatures, meaning they have a coarser pigment grind and can be thicker or less pigmented than dedicated hobby paints. This often results in a less smooth finish and can obscure detail. If you do use craft paints, thinning them down significantly with an acrylic medium is important, and you may need more coats than with specialized miniature paints.
How Many Coats of Base Paint Are Usually Needed?
For most acrylic paints on a properly primed miniature, two thin coats are usually sufficient for good, opaque coverage. However, this can vary greatly depending on the pigment of the paint (whites, yellows, and some reds often need more) and how thinly you are thinning it. It’s better to apply three or four very thin coats than two thick ones that obscure detail.
What’s the Difference Between a Base Coat and a Primer?
Primer is the initial layer applied directly to the bare plastic or metal miniature. Its main purpose is to help the subsequent paint layers adhere properly and to provide a uniform colour for your base coats. Base paint is the actual colour you want your model to be and is applied over the primer. You can brush paint the primer itself, but its primary job is adhesion and creating a consistent surface.
Should I Thin My Base Paint with Water or a Medium?
While you can thin with water, using an acrylic medium specifically designed for miniatures (like Citadel Lahmian Medium, Vallejo Glaze Medium, or an airbrush flow improver) is generally recommended. Water can sometimes break down the binder in the paint, making it less durable and prone to chipping. Mediums help maintain the paint’s integrity while achieving the desired thinning consistency.
Is It Okay to See Some Primer Through the First Base Coat?
Absolutely. In fact, it’s often desirable. The goal of the first thin coat is not necessarily full opacity, but to establish an even layer of colour. Seeing a bit of primer through the first coat means you’ve applied it thinly enough to avoid pooling and obscuring detail. The second coat will then fill in the gaps and achieve the full opacity.
Final Thoughts
So, to circle back to the original question: can I brush a base paint on my 40k minis? Yes, and with the right approach, it’s entirely possible to get fantastic results. Forget the idea that you need an airbrush to get a smooth base coat. It’s all about thinning your paints correctly, using decent tools, and being patient. The biggest mistake people make is using paint straight from the pot, or trying to achieve full coverage in a single, thick go. That’s a fast track to muddy details and frustration.
My advice? Grab a wet palette, thin your paints down to a milky consistency, and embrace the power of multiple thin coats. It might take a little longer than you initially thought, but the payoff in detail and a professional-looking finish is well worth the effort. Don’t let anyone tell you you’re doing it wrong if you’re using a brush; you’re just taking a different, often more accessible, path to a painted army.
Next time you’re staring at that pile of unpainted plastic, remember these tips. You’ve got this. Now go forth and paint!
