You’ve been there. That tiny, infuriating screw head, mangled beyond recognition by a slipping screwdriver. You try to back it out, but all you do is make it worse. The metal groans, the driver spins uselessly, and you feel that familiar hot wave of DIY despair washing over you. Is it even possible to fix this mess, or are you doomed to drill it out or just live with that permanently stuck screw?
Let’s cut to the chase: can you remove stripped screw by screwing into it? The short answer is: sometimes. It depends on how badly it’s stripped and what you try. I’ve wasted more hours than I care to admit on this exact problem, trying every trick under the sun. Some worked like magic, others were a complete waste of time and money. Today, I’m giving you the lowdown, no corporate fluff, just what actually gets the job done.
When the Driver Fails: Understanding the Stripped Screw Mess
Look, we all do it. We grab whatever screwdriver is closest, or we put a bit too much force on that Phillips head, and BAM. The edges that once grabbed the screw slots are now rounded nubs. It feels like the screw is mocking you, a tiny metal monument to your impatience or tool choice.
The common advice, of course, is to try a different screwdriver, maybe a slightly larger one, or one with a sharper tip. Sometimes that works, especially if it’s just a minor marring. But when the slots are truly rounded out, that’s when the real headache begins.
You try to force it, and the driver just cam-locks, spinning and chewing up the metal even more. This is the point where many folks panic and reach for the drill, but hold on a minute.
There are other ways to coax that stubborn little fastener out without turning it into a permanent, mangled fixture.
The fundamental problem is a loss of grip. The screwdriver needs solid contact with the metal of the screw head to transfer torque. When the mating surfaces are damaged, that contact is compromised.
It’s like trying to turn a doorknob with wet, greasy gloves – the grip just isn’t there. The angle of the screwdriver bit also plays a huge role. If you’re not perfectly perpendicular to the screw head, you’re going to introduce sideways force, which only makes the stripping worse.
I remember one time on a cheap IKEA bookshelf, the particle board stripped out the screw head before I even finished tightening it. It was a tiny, fiddly screw, and the particle board was softer than a politician’s promise. I spent about twenty minutes just trying to get that one screw out, and I made it so much worse before I finally gave up and just drilled it.
Understanding the material of the screw also helps. Soft brass screws strip incredibly easily. Hardened steel screws, like those often used in decks or outdoor projects, can be tougher to strip, but when they do, they’re a real pain to remove. The type of drive matters too. Phillips heads are notorious for stripping because the cam-out design, meant to prevent over-tightening, actually encourages slipping when too much force is applied at an angle. Torx (star drive) and Square (Robertson) drives are much less prone to stripping because their shapes provide more contact points and resist cam-out much better. If you’ve got a Torx screw that’s stripped, you’ve got bigger problems than most people do with a Phillips.
The ‘screw Into It’ Method: Does It Actually Work?
So, can you remove stripped screw by screwing into it? The idea here is a bit counterintuitive, and honestly, it’s not what most people immediately think of. When a screw is stripped, you usually think about backing it out.
But this method is about creating a new surface or a new way to grip the damaged head. The most common way this is interpreted is by trying to use a slightly larger screw or a different type of driver that can bite into the mangled metal. For example, if a Phillips head is stripped, some folks will try to hammer in a flathead screwdriver that’s just the right size to wedge into the remaining slots. The theory is that the flathead will catch on the edges of the damaged Phillips head and allow you to turn it. (See Also: Can You Remove Screw With Wrench )
Another variation involves using a screw extractor, which is designed to do precisely this. You drill a small pilot hole into the center of the stripped screw, and then you insert a reverse-threaded screw extractor. As you turn the extractor counter-clockwise (the direction you’d normally unscrew), its threads bite into the screw head, and hopefully, it backs the damaged screw out. This is a legitimate method, and it works pretty well for moderately stripped screws. I’ve used a set of these I bought for about $18 from a hardware store, and they’ve saved me a lot of grief on automotive projects where screws can get really stubborn.
However, the phrase ‘screwing into it’ can also be interpreted more literally, and this is where it gets tricky and often doesn’t work. Some people might suggest taking a new screw, especially one with sharp threads, and trying to drive it into the already damaged screw head. The idea is that the new screw’s threads will somehow grab onto the mangled metal of the old screw.
This rarely, if ever, works. You’re more likely to just create more damage or, at best, embed the new screw into the old one without getting it to budge. It’s a bit like trying to hammer a nail into a wall that’s already full of holes – you just end up with more mess. My personal experience with this literal interpretation is a resounding ‘nope’.
I once tried to force a slightly larger deck screw into the head of a stubbornly stripped cabinet screw, and all I accomplished was embedding the new screw about 2mm into the old one and making the whole situation a thousand times worse. It took me another hour and a half to finally drill the whole thing out.
When It’s Not Working: Red Flags and Things to Watch For
There are definitely times when you have to admit defeat and move on to a more aggressive method, like drilling. One of the biggest red flags is when you’ve tried multiple screwdrivers, applied firm, steady pressure, and the screw head just keeps giving way. If you’re seeing a lot of metal shavings or hearing that awful grinding sound, you’re probably past the point of a simple fix.
Another indicator is the type of screw and material. If it’s a small, delicate screw in soft material like plastic or particle board, your chances of successfully using a ‘screw into it’ method are slim to none. Those materials just don’t offer enough resistance to create a new grip. I’ve learned the hard way that trying to force things in soft materials is a recipe for disaster; you end up with a hole that’s too big for the original screw and too small for anything else.
Pay attention to the depth of the screw. If it’s only partially seated, you might have a better chance of getting a grip with tools like locking pliers (Vise-Grips). But if it’s sunk deep into wood or metal, and the head is just a mangled mess, trying to jam something into it that doesn’t have a defined gripping surface is usually futile. The material of the screw itself is also a clue. Cheap, soft metal screws will strip much more easily and be harder to grip once damaged. High-strength, hardened steel screws, while harder to strip initially, can become almost impossible to extract by simple methods once the head is compromised.
My contrarian opinion? Everyone talks about screw extractors like they’re magic wands, but they’re not. They work great when the screw head is intact enough to drill a clean pilot hole in the center. If the head is totally rounded off or shattered, drilling a pilot hole is often impossible, and the extractor just spins. I once spent nearly an hour trying to get a pilot hole centered on a completely mangled bolt head. I finally gave up and had to resort to grinding the head off with an angle grinder. So, while extractors are a tool in the arsenal, they’re not a guaranteed fix, especially for truly catastrophic screw head damage.
Practical Tips and Tricks That Actually Work
Okay, so you can’t just screw a new screw into a stripped one and expect miracles. But there are some tried-and-true methods that use a similar principle of creating a new grip, or using what little is left. The rubber band trick is surprisingly effective for mildly stripped screws. Place a wide rubber band over the stripped screw head, then insert your screwdriver and apply firm downward pressure while slowly turning. The rubber band fills the gaps and can provide enough friction for the driver to catch. It’s simple, cheap, and often works when nothing else seems to.
For more stubborn screws, try using a manual impact driver. This tool converts the force of a hammer blow into a sudden rotational force, which can shock a stuck screw loose. You place the bit in the screw head, set the driver to the ‘loosen’ direction, and give it a good whack with a hammer. The impact can break corrosion or whatever else is holding the screw, and the rotation helps unscrew it.
I’ve got a decent manual impact driver set that I bought for about $50, and it’s saved my bacon more times than I can count on old machinery and furniture. It’s not going to fix a completely rounded-out head, but if there’s any semblance of a slot left, it’s worth a shot. (See Also: Do Surgical Screws Get Removed )
Locking pliers (Vise-Grips) are your best friend if you can get a good grip on the outside of the screw head. Clamp them down TIGHTLY onto the sides of the screw head, then slowly twist the pliers counter-clockwise. This works best on screws that are sticking out a bit. I’ve used this on old lawnmower engines and patio furniture frames where screws were rusted in place.
The key is that firm, locked grip; if the pliers slip, you’re just making the head even more mangled. Another trick is to use a Dremel or small rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to create a new slot in the screw head.
You can cut a new, deeper slot that’s perfect for a flathead screwdriver. This requires a steady hand and some patience, but it’s a very effective way to turn a stripped Phillips or Torx screw into a serviceable flathead.
Comparison of Stripped Screw Removal Methods
| Method | Best For | Pros | Cons | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rubber Band | Mildly stripped Phillips/Pozidriv | Cheap, easy, non-damaging | Doesn’t work on severely stripped heads |
Good first try for minor issues. |
| Manual Impact Driver | Stuck screws, some stripping | High torque, can break free seized screws | Requires hammer, can damage delicate materials |
Excellent for tougher jobs where torque is needed. |
| Locking Pliers (Vise-Grips) | Screws with protruding heads | Strong grip, versatile | Requires good access to screw head sides |
A go-to for exposed, stubborn fasteners. |
| Rotary Tool (Dremel) Slotting | Severely stripped heads, needs new slot | Creates precise new grip surface | Requires skill, can overheat/damage |
Highly effective for difficult situations. |
| Screw Extractor Set | Moderately stripped screws with intact center | Designed specifically for extraction | Requires drilling pilot hole, can break |
Reliable for common stripping scenarios. |
When to Call It Quits and Grab the Drill
There comes a point in every DIYer’s life where you have to accept that a screw is not going to come out without drastic measures. If you’ve tried several methods – the rubber band, the impact driver, maybe even trying to cut a new slot with a Dremel – and the screw head is still mangled or completely gone, it’s time to bring out the big guns. The most common ‘drastic measure’ is drilling out the screw. This involves using a drill bit that’s slightly smaller than the screw’s shaft diameter to drill directly down the center of the screw. The goal is to obliterate the head, or at least weaken it enough to break it off.
When drilling, start with a small pilot bit and gradually increase the size. This makes it easier to keep the drill bit centered. If the screw head is completely gone, you’ll drill into the shank. The idea is to drill deep enough to effectively destroy the screw’s structural integrity or just drill through the head so the piece you’re trying to remove comes free.
Once the head is gone, you can often pull the material apart, and what’s left of the screw shank can then be gripped with pliers and removed. I’ve had to do this on furniture I was trying to repair, and while it’s not pretty, it often works when nothing else will. (See Also: Cant Remove Screw From Moen Faucet )
Remember, safety first: wear safety glasses, as metal shards can fly.
Another scenario where drilling is almost always the answer is when the screw is seized due to rust or corrosion. While methods like penetrating oil can help, if the head is already stripped, you’re fighting a losing battle trying to back it out conventionally. Drilling it out will break the bond and allow you to remove the piece.
Some people opt for a screw extractor kit that requires drilling. You drill a pilot hole, insert the extractor, and turn. This is technically a form of ‘screwing into it,’ but it’s done with a specialized tool. It’s often the last resort before pure destructive drilling, and it’s worth mentioning again because it’s a legitimate method when the head isn’t totally obliterated.
My experience with these extractors is mixed; they work wonders when the pilot hole is clean and centered, but if you mess that up, you’ve just created a bigger problem.
Faq: Your Stripped Screw Questions Answered
Can I Use a Bigger Screw to Remove a Stripped Screw?
No, not in the way you might think. You can’t just take a larger screw and drive it into the hole of a stripped screw to back it out. This will likely just create more damage or embed the new screw without removing the old one. The principle of ‘screwing into it’ for removal relies on creating a new grip surface or using a specialized tool, not simply forcing a larger fastener.
What’s the Fastest Way to Remove a Stripped Screw?
The fastest way depends on the severity of the stripping. For minor stripping, the rubber band trick or a manual impact driver can be quick. For more severe cases, creating a new slot with a rotary tool or using a screw extractor are faster than trying multiple ineffective methods. If all else fails, drilling it out is often the quickest, albeit destructive, solution.
Will Super Glue Work on a Stripped Screw?
Super glue can sometimes work for very minor stripping, especially on smaller screws. The idea is to put a drop of super glue on the stripped screw head and then immediately insert your screwdriver, holding it firmly in place until the glue dries. The glue can fill the gaps and provide just enough friction for the screwdriver to grip. It’s a hit-or-miss method and not reliable for anything beyond light damage.
Is It Better to Drill Out a Screw or Use an Extractor?
It depends on the situation. Extractors are generally preferred if the screw head is damaged but still has some material to grip or if you can drill a clean pilot hole. Drilling out the screw is a more destructive method that is better when the head is completely mangled or the screw is severely seized. Extractors aim to remove the screw intact, while drilling often destroys the screw head or shank.
Final Verdict
So, to circle back to our original question: can you remove stripped screw by screwing into it? The literal interpretation of driving a new screw into a stripped one is usually a bad idea and more likely to cause damage than solve anything. However, the principle of creating a new grip, or using tools that ‘screw into’ the damaged material to extract it, is very much a valid approach. Think screw extractors, or even cutting a new slot with a rotary tool – these methods are about engaging with the damaged screw in a controlled way.
My biggest takeaway from years of wrestling with these stubborn fasteners is this: don’t be afraid to try the simple, low-tech solutions first. The rubber band trick sounds silly, but I’ve seen it work wonders. If those fail, move to the more specialized tools like impact drivers or extractors. And if all else fails, accept that sometimes you just have to drill it out. It’s not the prettiest solution, but it’s often the only one that will get the job done and let you move on with your project.
Next time you face a stripped screw, remember these tips. And maybe, just maybe, you’ll save yourself a few hours of frustration and an unnecessary trip to the hardware store.
